Shetland Footprints Day 3

We started early this morning and left base camp before 7am with the weather showing promise but cloud remained stubborn and refused to allow too much Sun to break. We headed west to the long strip of islands known as Trondra with the intention of covering as many miles as possible. Running from north to south, with narrow strips of water between it and the mainland, Trondra had an appeal all of its own. The west coast of these islands is rough and rugged and has been twisted and buckled by countless years of tectonic forces,  the east though was calm and quiet, sloping gently to a water that was filled with pots and fishing bouys.

As the clouds parted, blue skies and bright sunshine meant that a return visit to Sunburgh was called for. The lighthouse stood high on the southern tip of the mainland and the cliffs around it are packed with Guillemots, Razorbills and of course the Puffin.

In the skies above Arctic Skuas joined the larger Bonxie (the local name for the Great Skua) to harass the smaller birds as well as the rabbits that call this place home. Taking a photograph of birds in flight is always difficult but on this occasion the wind helped making usually quick little birds stall and slow down just enough for a shot. When I am enjoying myself this much it is always difficult to tear myself away but there is only so many shots of Puffins you can take. Time to move on and enjoy the views as the skies cleared.

Shetland Footprints Day 2

We docked at Lerwick just after 7.30 and it was clear that the heatwave currently covering the UK was not going to extend this far north. To be fair, we were ready for the fog and the rain as we had followed the forecasts all week and this did not dampen our spirits as much as it did our coats.

The campsite we had chosen was a small community run site in a tiny village, by a tiny cove with a tiny beach about half an hour south of Lerwick. So, within a couple of hours of landing here and with the help of a couple of laughing Dutchmen, we had set up base camp and were wondering what to do about the waterfall that was steadily flowing through the roof and collecting into our very own Loch in the middle of the floor.

By the time we had found a replacement tent and pitched it, the afternoon had arrived along with more rain and stronger winds. It would have been easy to find a café and spend the time wondering what more the weather would bring, but instead we went off in search of high cliffs, big waves and the always magical Puffin. 

The weather was perfect for seabird watching but not photography although I did manage to meet a friendly little Puffin who stayed close enough to pose before finding a place out of the wind. The day ended calmer and dryer than it had started and although the sun struggled to break free of the clouds we had a chance to spend a little time with a Common Seal and her pup.

Night was long in coming and it didn’t hang around for long, it does not get properly dark here at this time of year, and daylight brought the promise of better weather.

Shetland Footprints: Day 1

The journey from Swanage to The Shetland Islands was always going to be a long one and was to be spread over two days. The plan consisted of the best part of twelve hours on the road, with a break after ten of them to take photographs of a wonderful school whose headmaster is a friend of mine, then on to Aberdeen and the ferry to Lerwick. A further twelve hours overnight on the water would see us arrive at about seven in the morning, with just about half an hour on Shetland roads to where we will be making camp.

We didn’t have time to explore Aberdeen, which was a shame, but we did manage to find the coast road that followed the southern hills below the docks. This turned out to be a smart move as within minutes of getting out of the car a large male Grey Seal made its was slowly through the water. A single Eider Duck was a lovely sight when the sun broke through the clouds and I proudly mentioned his presence to a nearby RSPB lady. She gave me a flash of one of those smiles reserved especially for idiots before directing my attention to the other couple of hundred Eider that were sleeping on the rocks around the corner. 

It was then that the first of perhaps fifty or so Dolphins appeared in the distance and, for the next couple hours, I battled with the poor light to get the best shots that I could. This was by far the greatest number of Dolphins I had ever seen and to watch them breach over and over again was very special. A pattern of sorts quickly started to develop and it became possible to predict, although not with 100% accuracy, when they would jump from the water.

As the dolphins moved on, so did we as it was time to embark on the next stage of the journey: the overnight sailing to Lerwick. The Sun broke through, the skies cleared and, as we left Aberdeen with camera firmly pointed at the harbour entrance, there was absolutely no sign of the Dolphins that we watched earlier. 

As for the ferry, well I suspect that although I am not particularly well travelled, a ferry is just a ferry. We had reclining seats in the front bar and almost immediately after the bar had closed, everyone settled down for the night. This is not a busy crossing tonight but there are many people scattered across chairs as well as the floor, people that can sleep whenever or wherever they want. I don’t sleep fully but catnap, waking often to any sound whether real or imaginary. I have never been able to just fall asleep on command and here now, even though the place is quiet, there are far too many new things to see.

The skies lightened just before three this morning and from then on waves, Gannets and Fulmars kept me amused. The sea, rougher than last night but still more fun than problem, is grey to match the clouds and the weather looks set to be exactly what was forecast. As we past Fair Isle, which is only just visible through the mist, there is only a couple of hours left and although I enjoy the rolling and pitching of the ferry I am looking forward to land and the next chapter.